Tag Archives: Sri Lanka

We Be Pilgrims

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ADAM’S PEAK or SRI PADA

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“The panorama from the summit of Adam’s Peak is perhaps the grandest in the world, as no other mountain, although surpassing it in altitude , presents the same unobstructed view over land and sea. Around it, to the north and east, the traveller looks down on the zone of lofty hills that encircle the Kandyan kingdom, whilst to the westward the eye is carried far over undulating plains, threaded by rivers like cords of silver, till in the purple distance the glitter of the sunbeams on the sea mark the line of the Indian Ocean” James Emerson Tennent

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Climbed it.

Swear.

My friend and I climbed it in the middle of the night.

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Slim Paley photo

Starting off at the gates to “Sri Pada” (Sacred Footprint)


Imagine a place on this strife-riddled planet where Hindus, Buddhists, Christians, and Muslims  all walk together, side by side, head to toe, in a peaceful, unified pilgrimage.

 Offering helping hands, sharing water, even carrying those unable to climb without aid,

Mostly in silence or in prayer…

(Ok, my friend and I complained a couple of times but under our breath and not until the very top…)

They are united simply in the spirit of the climb, not in dogma, as each religion holds a different belief about the origins of  the sacred footprint they seek to view at the top of Sri Pada.

And imagine that as each pilgrim takes this harmonious journey, usually commencing in the middle of the night, they are participating in something that  has been taking place for over 1,000 years.

We are all coming to pay our respects to

the large and distinct impression at the top of the mountain measuring aprox. 68″ long by 31″ at toes and 29″ at heel resembling a footprint.

According to Christian legend and closely believed by Muslims

(let’s hear it for the Christians and the Muslims agreeing on something),

Adam was hurled from Paradise for his disobedience and stood in penance for a thousand years on one foot at the top of Adam’s Peak, after which he was reunited with Eve on Mt. Arafat overlooking Mecca.

By the ninth century, this footprint was consequently considered one of the most sacred sites in the world..

 However the imprint was also identified by Buddhists as the Buddha’s footprint, by Hindus as that of Shiva, and later in the 1500′s the Portuguese attributed it to St. Thomas the Apostle.
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Let’s just say it’s a mighty popular footprint.

 

Slim Paley photo

Pardon the poor quality of these  photos but I only have a point & shoot camera and it was very dark and quite cold.

The flickering thread of light you see in the distance are the  climbers going before us.

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After  much research and consulting with others we decided that in order to appreciate the full Monty of the Sri Pada experience we too had to venture up in the middle of the night.

A quick trip to a men’s clothing shop to buy appropriate warm  jackets (albeit ones we would normally never be caught dead in that are now sacred garments we’ll never part with!)

An early dinner at the hotel followed by a midnight wake-up call to get layered up and ready for the 1 1/2 hour drive to the base of the mountain.

The idea is to begin the ascent at 2am to assure arrival at the summit in plenty of time to appreciate the sunrise;

“Pilgrims try to reach the summit before dawn to view the grand phenomenon known as the ‘ira-sevaya’ (the effulgence of the rising sun) puncturing the eastern horizon, like a ball of fire, casting a shadow of the mountain to fall on to the valley in the opposite direction, like a cone. The ‘ira sevaya’ is considered to mean the worship of the foot by the sun-god.”

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Yo, We be Pilgrims!

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Slim Paley photo

As you can see, in some places it is quite dark. The steps are rough and would hardly pass code in the United States.
It is 5,200 steps to the top. Seriously. I Shiva you not :)

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Slim Paley Photo

While tempted to shop on the way up (there’s a shocker), I remember that between my water, blanket, camera, sunglasses,iPhone, insect repellent, lip gloss, magnifying mirror and sunscreen, I don’t have a lot of room left.

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It did occur to me that a green banana bought at the bottom might well be yellow by the time we reached the top.

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Slim Paley Photo

Fashion choices for making the pilgrimage up Sri Pada really run the gamut.

Although some fellow “pilgrims” appeared friendlier than others, It all felt very Jean-Paul Gaultier inspired.

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Nearly there…

“no, don’t say that one more time.”

No, seriously, we’re really almost there.

“Shhuuh uup”

60 more steps…

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Here it comes…

The music now is a MUST;

  click on arrow

Skelator Hands at the ready…

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Rising through the heavy duvet of clouds tucked around the shoulders of the mountains

Here Comes the sun…

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Slim Paley photo

Dawn breaks casting a surreal orange glow upon the faces of the weary travelers huddled out of the wind below the shrine.

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Slim Paley photo

Some of our fellow pilgrims

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Slim Paley photo

At last the sun breaks free and starts to cast the shadows

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Where’s Waldo? I mean Slim??!

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Of course we had no appreciation of how high we actually were until morning came

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Slim Paley photo

Top of the World Ma!

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Slim Paley photo

Adam’s Peak rises 7,360ft. from the central highlands of Sri Lanka and can be seen by sea rising above the horizon 80 miles before the coastline comes into view

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We were filled with the glory of achievement and excited to make our way down, making the silly assumption that it would be much easier than the ascent.

We were SO wrong. Coming down was brutal. The constant jarring impact of your foot against the unforgiving stone steps was no fun.

I thought if I should ever so much as see another step for the rest of the holiday it would be too soon.

It took us over 3 hours to come down! We walked sideways like crabs for the next 3 days, explaining to anyone and everyone that we had

“CLIMBED ADAM’S PEAK”

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Naturally the shops were all closed up.

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We managed to find a few that were open and got awfully excited when we thought this was FUDGE.

Flies or no flies, that moment of “Fuuuuudddggge” that pranced across my brain was so exciting while it lasted.

Alas, not sure what it was but it wasn’t fudge-still I did consider buying it to put in my left shoe…

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And all up and down- Yay Us!!

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Can I tell you how lovely it was to come back to this welcome at our cozy hotel nestled in the tea fields (and be carried up the stairs?!!)

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Are YOU in the mood for Adventure yet?!

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For more information on Adam’s Peak click here; Sacred Sites

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Memories, Old & New

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Flowers in the garden of the Gallery Cafe, Colombo, Sri Lanka

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A small, almost tear drop shaped country  dangling off the coast of India like a gorgeous emerald earring, Sri Lanka has always held a special place in my heart.  As I mentioned previously, I’ve been here twice before and though I hate to admit how far back that was, the fact that the rupee note I’d saved from my last visit was now in the Colombo Historical Museum (no joke) did give me a moment to reflect upon the swift passage of time (as well as sensation of slight indigestion)

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Don’t look at my manicure. I’m on my hols.

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I have never forgotten the omnipresent scent of woodsmoke drifting in the still, moist air, the beauty of the trees,the wildly exotic birds, the spectacular sunsets, and most of all, the sweetness of the people.

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and don’t even get me started on the children.

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The beach side of the Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

We started our adventure in the port city of Colombo where, I must admit, there isn’t a huge amount of things to see, however it’s where international flights land, so after a long journey, in my case from L.A., it’s nice to rest one night here, perhaps visit a museum or two and do a little shopping before you head off for more scenic destinations around the country. We’d asked our travel agent to book us into The Galle Face Hotel, where I had stayed before and adored it. Built right on the beach in Colombo in 1865, this huge Colonial Grand Dame is positively steeped (aptly, in this land so famous for their tea ) in the memories and ghosts of  all the interesting people, events and history of Ceylon that have passed through it’s colonnaded entrance.  Anybody who was anybody, from Kings to movie stars stayed at The Galle Face when they arrived in Colombo.

 So imagine my disappointment when our reservations fell through just a week or so before our trip?!

No. It could not be! Did they not remember me?! :)

Alas, it was true, and with high season in full swing, we had to choose another place to lay our weary heads.  A chance (very lucky) Twitter exchange with a writer from Australian Vogue Living magazine resulted in us booking  ”The Tintagel” instead.

 Score!!

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The Tintagel, Colombo, Sri Lanka
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The lounge at The Tintagel Hotel
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Every bit as chic as promised by Australian Vogue, this 1920′s mansion in a fashionable part of town was home to the first female Prime Minister and is now being run as a very cool boutique hotel. And what’s better than a cool hotel with staff that is simply brilliant instead of being busy trying to out-cool the guests?
 My friend and I were happy as half-baked clams our first night, tucked under the eaves of our adjoining terrace (the one you see on the second floor) with a chilled bottle of wine, while thunder & lightning split open the pewter grey skies and rain lashed upon the steaming hot terrace and cobblestones below.
Happiness!
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Lashings and lashings of rain on the terrace of The Tintagel, Colombo
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Almost dry and beautiful again the following morning
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Mosquito netting, a great night’s sleep and a good(ish) cup of coffee – more happiness!
Up bright and early the next morning to visit the historical and the Dutch Heritage museums, before doing a little shopping and taking lunch at the Paradise Road /Gallery Cafe ( former residence of famed Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa-but more on G.B. later)
The building now houses a shop, gallery and restaurant, also owned by Shanth Fernando, the proprietor of The Tintagel Hotel, although we didn’t even realize that when we stumbled in for lunch.
 
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The courtyard features a pond of giant black Koi fish, fabulously patinaed walls, and revolving art installations.
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Would have loved to see these gas torches lit in the evening, it must look fantastic.
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and what’s an afternoon break from shopping without the requisite Chili & Tamarind Martini
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To go with black pork curry, dhal and poppadums?!
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The indoor/outdoor Gallery Cafe.
If you’re ever in Colombo it’s a must experience.
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Lastly, as I’m like a dog with a bone sometimes, I had to drag my friend to The Galle Face hotel to watch the sunset on the beach terrace but  my Galle Face luck continued and we got there too late. The hotel was still beautiful but absolutely teeming with tourists (harumph) Just crazy busy. We sat outside in the exquisite balmy night and waited for over 1/2 an hour for our drinks while some German men smoked away beside us (it’s illegal to smoke in public places in Sri Lanka, btw)
Nobody else noticed the large rat that scurried by, stopped and looked at me for just a moment as if to say
“You can’t go back. You can never go back” and then continued into the dark night.
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Slim Paley photo
The promenade at The Galle Face Hotel
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So that’s it for now, please stayed tuned as that was just our first day on Sri Lankan soil.
Lots more to come including beautiful gardens, gorgeous homes & hotels, tea plantations, mountain climbing,  more changed plans and a giant tooth. You heard me.
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Oh, and just one more thiiiing…
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Wouldn’t you know, I leave the country for a minute and they hold the contest again.
So I’m getting a late start here, in fact  kinda getting creamed.  Voting for nominations started Feb. 23rd and close end of day March 2nd.
Yes, it takes a minute or two to register to vote, but it’s really very simple. Just log in if you’re already a member of Apartment Therapy or sign up and register  if you’re not and then it’s simply a 1 click vote.  If you registered last year and can’t remember your password, they will send you a new one.
The top 6 nominees will go on to the last round of the contest.
I’m really sticking my right leg out of my dress here and asking you to take the time to vote,
that’s if you enjoy my blog, of course.
Last year you all helped me to finish in 2nd place, which was awesome.
Here’s the link;
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Overnout from The Galle Fort, Sri Lanka
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A Guest Post From Slim’s Friend

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Dearest Slim Paley Readers:

I regret to inform you that Slim Paley has gone “troppo” for the moment.  As you know, she is an enthusiastic traveller and as her pal and travel partner, we chose Sri Lanka for this year’s sojourn.  Our plans have changed from day to day. We even dropped one country and chose another. But in Sri Lanka I seem to have lost her to a gentle country of open faces and Dutch Colonial architecture, which was her passion but now her obsession.  It is also a country she visited when she was even a hotter chick than she is now.

Although I have reminded her every day that she might want to think about working on her next post, I can’t tear her away from King Coconut water and Geoffrey Bawa houses.  She is in a bit of a swoon over it all, the swaying palms, billowing mosquito nets, the tea plantations, and a country where the coffee is so awful and the tea so wonderful there is hardly a choice for those of us accustomed to our morning lattes.  Having toured a tea factory, it won’t be long before Slim will be instructing you all on how to make tea, how to taste it and how you should feel after a proper cuppa.

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Fields of tea and waterfalls, Sri Lanka

Admittedly, I have also found myself cheerful at the prospect of unreliable or virtually no internet. Slim did help me meet a deadline so I feel obliged to let her off the hook for now.

You can expect some of her most inspired writing and annoyingly wonderful photos (although maybe some of mine may make their way into her blog) and I can assure you it will be worth the wait.

Sending you all glad tidings from Paradise,

Slim’s friend

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Always an adventure-Who knew low tide was only in the morning?

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Many thanks to my dear friend and travel mate for writing my very first “Guest Post”.  I promise I haven’t gone AWOL amongst the fields of tea. I will be posting very shortly-I have lots to share!

xoxSP

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Dear Abbey

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Lady Mary at the train station bids adieu to Cousin Matthew

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And I must also board a train to distant lands…

(after a plane, a car, then another plane, and one more car, but those bits aren’t so romantic)

I’m off to Sri Lanka and Burma (Myanmar) with a girlfriend for 3 weeks!!

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Cousin Matthew and Lady Mary say good-bye

but it could just as well be my husband seeing me off

(after he catches his breath getting all my bags into the car)

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I’m quite beside myself with excitement and slightly overwhelmed at what’s involved in leaving home & hearth for 3 whole weeks.

Packing is the least of it.

No, it SO isn’t, but I’ve always wanted to say that.

One MIGHTY BIG concern is the fact that I’m going to be missing the last 3 episodes of Downton Abbey, including the 2 hour Christmas Special!

I’m afraid if I do have internet access I’m going to get ‘spoilers’ coming at me left and right.

The Husband’s never been great at keeping secrets either, which means he might be banned from watching until I return.

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I’ve recorded this for him as a warning reminder;

Downton Abbey

 

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Will they get back together?

Will the cheeky chauffeur have his way with her Ladyship?

Is Robert really going to leave Downton to be in the employ of such a nouveau riche bounder?

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Meanwhile, I’m going to miss my favourite character

Lord Grantham

but I’m slightly worried about the glint he’s getting in his eye when talking to the new maid…

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Hmmm- and who might that new precocious parlormaid be??

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Impostor or the real deal?

And if dead cousin Gordon or whatever his name is can just waltz up from The Titanic’s watery depths, albeit burned beyond recognition and with an American accent, to  crash the party,  why can’t our favourite Turkish delight rise stiffly (no pun intended) from his grave to make a repeat performance??

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Who amongst us would mind?!

oh here, let me get that mud for you with the warm edge of the lace hankie I keep tucked just inside my heaving bodice.

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and while we’re at it…

Is it just me, or is Lady Mary’s fiancé Sir Richard Carlisle not  the love child of Richard Chamberlain and Peter Beard?

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Richard Chamberlain

Sir Richard (Iain Glen)

and Peter Beard

Separated at birth, no??

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Is the treacherous Thomas softening slightly this season?

I do believe I’ve almost caught a glimmer of a smidgen of a smile once or twice.

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I might I need to ask Cousin Matthew who followed me on Twitter recently

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Although he’s not exactly the chattiest follower on Twitter.

Perhaps the paralysis is migrating upwards…

Hey! Matthew! WAKE UP

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 Cocktail napkins from Rue de Lillie Antiques, Summerland, CA.

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Robert: “You know, there is nothing more ill-bred than to steal other people’s servants.”

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In honor of my favourite show, I’m sharing my bells once more…

Found years ago in London

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Traveled across the seas to America

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To live silently ever after in my kitchen in Sun Valley, Idaho.

Imagine the stories they could tell.

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And how does One feel about Madame MacClaine joining the cast next Season?!

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Is there really room for two Divas?!

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Who is your favourite character?

Are you enjoying the second season as much as the first?

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PS. I hope to be able to post  and keep in touch on my travels, but it’s rather a whirlwind itinerary and I’m not sure how available internet access will be.

I’ll try to check in on FB  & Twitter

 (It’s always been my dream to “Tweet” from Mandalay :) )

If you haven’t done so already, you might like to sign up for my email alerts at the top of this page to stay connected.

(don’t forget to click on the ‘confirm’ button you will be sent-it takes 1 second)

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** Hoarder Alert;  It’s been 29 years since my last visit to “Ceylon” but I saved this 10 rupee bill (circa 1979) knowing that someday, I would return.

It’s going back with me this week.

Woo hoo!

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I’ll see you at The Abbey tonight!

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and dare we hope that Matthew felt a tingle??

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