Slim Paley Daily #2

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A Crusty Avocado Tart

in the gardens of “Maisons Des Reves” Dar Ahlam, Ouarzazete, Morocco

It’s Tart Tuesday!

(see what I did there?)

This was one of the most delicious dishes we ate inhaled during our entire holiday in Morocco.

The combination of melty, yet slightly grainy short crust pastry, creamy fresh avocado filling and crunchy baby lettuce & pomegranate seeds was positively dreamy.

So, Yay! Who’s your Mama?? I got the recipe and I’m sharing it with youse guys.

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L1150099It took literally every ounce of will power (and the fact that I wasn’t alone) to not ask for a second tart.

L1150096Serve with some freshly toasted french bread, chilled white wine

(do not look at that Coke-it’s a mirage-we were in the desert)

and you’ll feel like you are …

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ZZzzzzzzz….

Until tomorrow.

~

All photos Slim Paley, recipe filched from “Maison Des Reves”*

*Proper props will be proffered in an upcoming post. Promise.

Bedouin & Breakfast

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“I wish for all this to be marked on my body when I am dead. I believe in such cartography – to be marked by nature, not just to label ourselves on a map like the names of rich men and women on buildings. We are communal histories, communal books. We are not owned or monogamous in our taste or experience.” 
― Michael OndaatjeThe English Patient

Yes, that.

So we jumped at the opportunity to spend a sand-swept day and star-filled night in the wilds of the desert at the end our Moroccan adventure.

( it’s almost over…just 1 more post-after this one :) )

890A7354We departed from our hotel located in the outskirts of the city of Ouarzazete by helicopter

890A7365a 50 minute journey over epic scenery

L1020995which we loved…albeit ever vigilant for potential emergency landing spots (see it?!)

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890A7367Incredible to see how specks of verdant green popped up occasionally

L1030005and the lengths some people will go to to ‘unplug’

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rtwgdWhile it’s true that my friend and I did ever so slightly miss the presence of Ralph…

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and couldn’t help but give Omar a thought

or two…

Sand peopleThe hotel camp had us covered!

IMG_3554The tents were amazing

890A7386Crisp white sheets, hot water bottles and a private loo. You can just imagine my happiness.

890A7395More Happiness

(P.S. Gordon’s Gin people, please feel free to contact me for the photo :-) )

Screen Shot 2013-03-14 at 4.00.27 PMSlim Sandy

890A7485‘The desert could not be claimed or owned—it was a piece of cloth carried by winds, never held down by stones’

from The English Patient.

L1150138Tagine served from a huge earthenware pot

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L1030076What we listened to under the canopy of a billion stars?

“Us & Them” from Dark Side of the Moon of course!

(click for mandatory listening please!)


and as I’ve learned through experience, there’s something quite magical about watching an old movie while tucked in a tent in the middle of nowhere, I brought my newest old favourite;

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“The Rains Came”

With no irony.

Screen Shot 2013-04-11 at 8.14.44 PMDawn in the desert

890A7438A peacefulness one can’t describe

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890A7489Strike a pose

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Bedouins_John_Singer_SargentJohn Singer Sargent’s Bedouins

890A7482Bedouin Breakfast

.

a little sand kicking up??

IMG_3558 copyno problem for my ever resourceful, quick thinking friend who manages to eat breakfast, play DJ and start a new style trend at the same time.

890A7421“Ralph…Ralph…We’re here for you…”

.

caf8fa84021816e56fcc2147dc7ce94d_viewThe John Singer Sargent exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum  is on now through July 28th

Our desert sojourn was organized by Maison Des Reves

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and have a splendid weekend!

xx

SP

~

Opulence Moroccan Style

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Though we enjoyed the hotels we stayed in during our visit to Morocco ( more on those later) for future reference and to satisfy our FOMO (Fear of Missing Out) we spent a little time in Marrakech checking out some other options.

Put your velvet seatbelt on

for the “Royal Mansour” located in the heart of the Medina.

Image 16 Where behind every gently wafting silken drape…

890A6794another gasp awaits

Image 46The attention to detail at Royal Mansour knows NO bounds

Image 83It’s how you spell luxe and then some.

Screen Shot 2013-03-25 at 1.35.26 PMOne could wear the newest Dior dress I love so much and not feel overdressed.

Image 14“Le Bar” to end all bars

Image 75with walls panelled in reverse glass rose gold leaf

Image 13Photos do not capture the depth and beauty of the rose gold panels.

They glow like the gossamer veiled cheeks of an exquisite young virgin bride marrying a dark, dashing Sheik at desert sunset

(think young Omar Sharif without the gambling habit)

Image 2Are you getting the idea yet??!

890A6864 copyThe chandelier in the interior courtyard

Image 79We enjoyed a cocktail or two here in quiet awe, just listening to the birdsong, the tinkling of ice cubes and the heavy rustling of palm fronds in the wind.

Image 32“La Grande Table Marocaine” restaurant, with blue marble floors, is presided over by celebrated French chef Yannick Alleno.

a52e5292fd046c653bc822bbc73ace3eI would probably choose this little number from Armani Spring 2013 should I be so lucky as to dine here.

Image 34Cool marble, embroidered water-silk taffeta, feathers & inlaid rosewood…cuhraazy

Image 25I don’t even know how to begin to explain the coffered ceiling in the “Chimney Lounge”

Honeycombs conceived by bees drunk on silver.

Again, the photos don’t do it justice.

Image 22The Chimney Lounge, so named for the transparent glass fireplace that allows you to gaze upon the gardens through the flames while sipping your cognac.

Did I mention it’s a wood burning fireplace ??

Come ON.

Screen Shot 2013-03-25 at 4.16.03 PMPhoto via Royal Mansour

I need this in my next life as a Persian Princess.

Image 21Hand tooled leather walls

Image 12and rugs.

It just doesn’t stop.

Image 27“La Grande Table Francaise” Royal Mansour’s French restaurant preparing for the evening.

I can only imagine how beautiful it must be by candle lightImage 29A gecko candle holder, one of many crystal creatures crawling across the walls of the restaurant.

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Screen Shot 2013-03-25 at 3.56.33 PMAs dusk descends (yes, we stayed that long!) the hotel becomes even more magical

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There are no “rooms” at the Royal Mansour, just 53 private riads.

As you’ve no doubt deduced by now, this is not where you would choose to stay if you’re counting your dirhams.

 Ahem. It’s splurging to be sure. I don’t know if it would be my choice if I were bringing children with me either, but for a romantic and decadent getaway for couples? Hell ya.

There is also a gorgeous spa and a divine little shop.

But of course, you knew that!

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For more information on Royal Mansour

~

All photos (unless otherwise credited) by Slim Paley.

Inside the Medina

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The first thing you learn about staying in the heart of the Medina is that, chances are, your luggage will be carted through the entire square for the world to see.

L1150071Seriously. Joan Collins on safari.

L1150075Luckily, the locals barely bat an eye (though as you can see, I’m walking 20 paces behind, carrying a big bag of mortification)

L1020791Needless to say, I get more comfortable with the concept in a day or two.

Here for a good time not a long time as they say.

Screen Shot 2013-03-19 at 5.26.58 PMThe souk is every bit the cacaphonic (poetic license) symphony of sounds, sights & smells I had expected.

It’s a lot to absorb in just a couple of days

Screen Shot 2013-03-19 at 3.46.08 PMScreen Shot 2013-03-19 at 3.45.49 PMBut although wildly animated, the market never really felt overwhelming.

For that we extend a big thank you to Maryam Montague from My Marrakech blog who (literally) wrote the book on Marrakech Style.

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 Maryam accompanied us for the better part of two days, helping us to explore the city and plow through our “To Do” list with considerable grace.

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Thank you Maryam for our “Insider’s tour” through Marrakech!

Truly, I couldn’t imagine navigating this city and it’s souks without the aid of someone who really knows their way around.

890A6419A rare peaceful moment-Friday afternoon when most of the dealers are attending Mosque.

890A6499And what’s a trip to Morocco without a little rug shopping?!

890A6595We took Maryam’s advice and walked out into the main square of the medina on our last night in Marrakech to experience the party that apparently happens every night!

890A6600What’s really great? For the most part the revellers are the local Moroccans who obviously know how to have a good time.

890A6615Fresh escargot anyone?

According to Maryam the food is extremely fresh and safe. Food stands are entirely dismantled at evening’s end and all left over food is disposed of.

890A6613Here, a rowdy and obviously popular game of fishing for soda bottles.

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890A6594And here, pretty much anything to cure what ails you.

There was even a man(woman?) who was ready to yank out your aching tooth (with a whacking great pile of previous customer’s teeth to prove it) but he/she didn’t look too photo friendly :(

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As the vendors dismantled their kiosks for the night, we wandered back towards our riad, our breath visible in the cold night air, the first call to prayer in the early morning hours not too far off

and visions of breakfast dancing in our heads…

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Almond soup with argan oil, Moroccan pancakes, fresh orange juice infused with orange blossom and good strong coffee.

~

All Photos Slim Paley

~

The Road to Ouarzazete

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So we decide it would be much more fun to take a road trip than to fly to Ouarzazate.

It’s just over the snowcapped High Atlas mountain range you see in the distance.

No biggie.

L1020852The journey takes the better part of 5 1/2 hours and turns out to be one of the highlights of our trip to Morocco.

890A7053We pass through the most amazingly diverse terrain

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890A7174Traffic is wild

890A7001With nary a dull moment

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While much of the drive is immersed in a patchwork of deep green grass and red earth, towards the mountain top things get positively lunar.

And wait…what’s this I see?

Shopping??

890A6983Yes. We found a store.

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Rock Shopping. Dig it.

Screen Shot 2013-03-14 at 10.10.22 PMHappiness!

890A6970The salesperson’s hands

L1020846Just in case you were wondering.

890A7066Coming down the other side of the mountains we detour to Telouet to stop for a delicious lunch

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890A7069and to tour the incredible ruins of Telouet Kasbah, where the likes of General Patton and Churchill were received back in the day.

890A7106Only the storks call it home now but restoration is slowly underway.

890A7087Our extremely knowledgable guide.

If you can believe it, this is how some of the rooms within the ruins are still appointed, despite the dilapidation inside and out.

890A7089Examples of two astonishing archways

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890A7094and a ceiling in one of the grand salons

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890A7115Up on the roof, storm clouds roll in upon lusty winds

890A7130and our “Talitha Getty” photo shoot is foiled (for now :-) )

It was so cold-don’t look at my Uggs.

890A7155Getting closer to our destination, the villages hugging the water’s edge become chameleons against the rocks.

DSC01016Only the satellite dishes give them away

(or their ‘white flowers’ as our driver called them )

890A7168One last ruined kasbah glows in the gorgeous setting sun

and it’s cocktail time for a couple of very dusty ladies.

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~