Ice Capades

Perito Moreno Glacier slimpaley.com

The Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

PeritoMorenoglacier slimpaley.comSo. It’s bloody freezing everywhere, isn’t it? Honestly, I’m usually loathe to touch on the subject of global warming-not even vaguely my area of expertise (still actively searching for that) but who knew “warming” would translate to the coldest winter ever?!  My older son lives in NY, so I worry. He’s thin. Well, truth be told, my younger son lives in California and I worry. He’s tall. I’m my mother’s daughter-that’s my job.

Meanwhile, I’m finally, semi-partially-settled back into normalcy since returning from our family’s South American holiday. It was a wild ride. From 92 degrees with 110% humidity in Buenos Aires to strapping on crampons and glacier hiking in Patagonia, I felt like a contestant in “The Amazing Race”-without all the histrionics of course.

OK, there was the slight to medium-sized hissy fit I threw when my iPhone slid out of my pocket and down a deep crevasse on the glacier…

the glacier that ate my iPhone

But who could blame me?! It was brand new…wa wa. I hadn’t bought a new phone in a really long time (I’m one of those “but what if a new one comes out right after I buy the new one?”) I didn’t get insurance because I never lose or break things, wa wa.

Let’s just say it took me several minutes to recover.

Perito Moreno glacier, Patagonia slimpaley.com

But back to Perito Moreno.

The Eolo hotel, El Calafate, Argentina

We stayed at a most charming hotel, “The Eolo” located on a 10,000 acre ranch aprox. 25 minutes outside of the small town of El Calafate. From there, we drove to Los Glaciares National Park and boarded a small ferry to a cove left of the glacier.

Glaciares National Park  Slimpaley.com

There are a few small structures where you may picnic sheltered from the wind and watch ice move…which it does at a rate I’m forgetting, but a lot faster than you’d think. Just in the short space of time we were there, we saw a major caving off the front of the glacier, a mighty cracking noise followed by a tremendous boom and then startling silence.

Perito Moreno Glacier, slimpaley.com

The Perito Moreno Glacier is over 19 miles long and almost a 100 sq. miles in total. The average height above water is 270 ft, with depths reaching 550 ft. Part of an ice field that is the 3rd largest source of the world’s fresh water, it’s also one of only 3 Patagonian glaciers that is actually growing. Experts aren’t quite sure why.

Perito Moreno glacier, slimpaley.com

PeritoMorenoglacier slimpaley.com

Hiking to the glacier is a startling reminder of how even the wreckage of Mother Nature can be starkly beautiful

slimpaley.com

Do you see those tiny black dots on the glacier? It’s the group of hikers ahead of us.

As the photos attest, it wasn’t the most ideal of weather conditions, but we did get lucky in that it wasn’t windy.

PeritoMorenoglacier

This was the last stop, where the guides helped you put on your crampons before climbing onto the glacier. There was also a bin full of soaking wet gloves in case you didn’t bring any. They didn’t mention the gloves were “left” & “right”   Just saying :-(

And off we went…

cramponing glacier slimpaley.com

Our fellow Amazing Race contestants

hiking the glacier slimpaley.com

Some people just know how to pack.

Whatever.

glacier hiking slimpaley.com

It really wasn’t that scary, but once and awhile you had to jump over stuff like this and imagine what it might be like if you slipped.glacier crevasse, slimpaley.com

This is the crevasse I passed through just before “The…INCIDENT” as my family likes to refer to it.

glacier slimpaley.com

As the entire trip had been conceived and planned by my husband, I hadn’t any preconceived notions of what to expect. I just let the entire experience roll over me and I must say it was exhilarating.

Especially when towards the end, we crested this peak and what to my iPhone-less eyes did appear…

Glacier Bar slimpaley.com

A COCKTAIL BAR!!!

Ice Bar , slimpaley.com

Whiskey…with plenty of  very fresh ice

whiskey on the rocks slimpaley.com

Our guides divvying  up our rewards

Whiskey on ice , slimpaley.com

Seriously-I don’t even drink whiskey but Mama was so happy to have her nice brown drink.

I removed my mouldy second left glove, toasted Ernest Shackleton and all the courageous Antarctic explorers who had gone before me…

and thanked my lucky stars I was getting back onto a warm boat and not crawling into a dank seal-skin sleeping bag in a wind torn tent for the next year and a half.

Phone schmone.

And you know…whiskey isn’t really that bad

e74b56806d318858672276dbdbf69abb

Stay warm, cozy and open to adventure.

xx SP

For an icy blast from the past, click here

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The Ice Man Cometh Not

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Slim Paley photo

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Yes, some of you might remember this photo from around Christmas time last year.

I snapped it from the window of my home in Sun Valley.

Enormous icicles were hanging all along the north side of the house and the snow was deep.

This year, thus far…snow, snow, where did you go??

There’s nary a flake to be found.

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Also from a post last Christmas, but well worth repeating;

The amazing Freddie Mercury singing “A Winter’s Tale”

Talk about chills!


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Oscar de la Renta silver beaded tassel earrings $395

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Giorgio Armani SS 2012 finale

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So pretty, so easy!

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Stocking stuffer from Buccellati

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These are very cool

cast glass logs, that look like giant crystals

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Jeff Benroth glass logs

(I saw some similar to this at Ruzzetti & Gow, NYC

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“Snowball” votives available at Bloomingdales

Corto Moltedo clutch

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PS. I know what you’re thinking- Slim, you missed a day on the Advent Calendar!

What you’re forgetting is that next year is actually a Leap Year and therefore, I didn’t really miss yesterday’s post.

Don’t think about that too hard. You’ll get brain freeze.

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Day 22ish 23 People- time to get serious!

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