The Road to Ouarzazete

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So we decide it would be much more fun to take a road trip than to fly to Ouarzazate.

It’s just over the snowcapped High Atlas mountain range you see in the distance.

No biggie.

L1020852The journey takes the better part of 5 1/2 hours and turns out to be one of the highlights of our trip to Morocco.

890A7053We pass through the most amazingly diverse terrain

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890A7174Traffic is wild

890A7001With nary a dull moment

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While much of the drive is immersed in a patchwork of deep green grass and red earth, towards the mountain top things get positively lunar.

And wait…what’s this I see?

Shopping??

890A6983Yes. We found a store.

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Rock Shopping. Dig it.

Screen Shot 2013-03-14 at 10.10.22 PMHappiness!

890A6970The salesperson’s hands

L1020846Just in case you were wondering.

890A7066Coming down the other side of the mountains we detour to Telouet to stop for a delicious lunch

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890A7069and to tour the incredible ruins of Telouet Kasbah, where the likes of General Patton and Churchill were received back in the day.

890A7106Only the storks call it home now but restoration is slowly underway.

890A7087Our extremely knowledgable guide.

If you can believe it, this is how some of the rooms within the ruins are still appointed, despite the dilapidation inside and out.

890A7089Examples of two astonishing archways

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890A7094and a ceiling in one of the grand salons

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890A7115Up on the roof, storm clouds roll in upon lusty winds

890A7130and our “Talitha Getty” photo shoot is foiled (for now :-) )

It was so cold-don’t look at my Uggs.

890A7155Getting closer to our destination, the villages hugging the water’s edge become chameleons against the rocks.

DSC01016Only the satellite dishes give them away

(or their ‘white flowers’ as our driver called them )

890A7168One last ruined kasbah glows in the gorgeous setting sun

and it’s cocktail time for a couple of very dusty ladies.

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~

#1 Address in the Indian Ocean

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With only one or two days left in January I’ve just realised it’s been a year since my  Sri Lankan sojourn and I never did get around to writing the posts I promised about all the incredible places and things we experienced there.

Perhaps a teeny, weeny part of my resistance was self-serving-I don’t want toooo many people going there-just you guys :)

(Oh oh. Was I being a Holiday Destination Hoarder?!)

img-index Taprobane.com

But I think the main reason was I’m just so damn in love with the place that I wanted every post to be perfect.

Then I remembered my old resolution that “DONE is a whole lot better than perfect” (Was that it?? Something to that effect anyway)

So, with no further time to waste, let’s take a quick visit back to Taprobane Island.

L1090993Located in the Indian Ocean, just a stone’s throw off the southern tip of Sri Lanka in Weligama Bay.

Sri Lanka - from Galle Fort to 30km south.The famous stick fishermen of Weligama Bay

L1080726and yours truly, also in Weligama, waaay too many years ago to admit to.

Taprobane Island mimics the shape of Sri Lanka but measures a mere 2 1/2 acres. It was built in 1922 by the Count de Maunay-Talvande who grandly presided over this last, tiny tear-drop of land before the South Pole, for almost 30 years. After Maunay’s death in the late 40′s, the house fell into a state of neglect until the American writer Paul Bowles came upon it. It was love at first sight and it was here that he wrote “The Spider House”.

In reading a biography about Bowles and his wife Jane several years ago I learned that as enchanted as he was with his tiny slice of Sri Lankan heaven, Jane simply abhorred it. She was a woman blessed with neither good health nor disposition at this stage of her life and deeply feared the swarms of huge bats that routinely descended upon the island each dusk. While Paul enjoyed the peace and inspiration Taprobane offered him, Jane would be plotting her escapes.

Not to mention her girlfriend was back in Morocco waiting for her, but that’s another story.

jane-y-paul-bowlesI want to go back to Morocco now

L1090994The octagonal open air design allows the tropical breezes to flow through the house. The black doors you see flanking the terrace lead to bedrooms

L1100013This was Paul Bowle’s bedroom. Much of the original furnishings and paintings are still there. Don’t you just love the doors?!

Screen Shot 2013-01-30 at 8.40.00 AMMoi, in one of the other bedrooms enjoying a dreamy, sultry breeze on a very hot & humid day.

L1100017One of the things we loved about much of the architecture we encountered in Sri Lanka were the wonderful ways in which seating areas are incorporated into walls and floors.

L1100030Like this.

Note the gorgeous patina on the cool, smooth concrete floors- something we also saw a lot of and such a great choice in a hot climate.

Screen Shot 2013-01-30 at 8.36.34 AMTaking late afternoon tea at Taprobane.Uh… no bats ’til dusk right???

(ps. I told you it was humid!)

L1100015The steps leading down to the ocean where the house staff told us the present owner and his mother had been swimming when the Tsunami struck.

Miraculously, they both survived but much of the lower part of the house was damaged and the swimming pool was completely swept away.

L1100018A new infinity pool has been built in a higher location on the property. Here you can see how close the beach of Weligama is to the island.

L1100044The tropical gardens surrounding the house are brimming with eye-popping bouganvilla

Yes, I did post this pic of us leaving the island last year…

L1000537Remember that the tide does rise in the afternoon in Weligama Bay!

For More information about  Taprobane read HERE

L1100012A photo hanging in the house.

(Please note, we did not stay on the island, we just visited and took tea and the tour one unforgettable afternoon)

Happy Travels!

xx

~

A WOOD POST

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Slim Paley photo

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I’m absolutely stark raving mad about WOOD, particularly old wood,  so compiling the images for this post was a labour of love for me.  The photo above is of our octagonal porch in Sun Valley.  The floors are reclaimed  wood, with a stone border running round the perimeter. The walls are “papered” in real birch bark with thin switches of willow where the sheets of bark meet. Finding a tradesperson to do the installation was more difficult than, well, childbirth would only be a slight exaggeration, but where there’s a will there’s a way, right people?! Besides, you forget all about it when it’s over :)   The speakers, electrical outlets and switch plates were all faux painted to disappear. My painter did such a great job but I’m not going to show you because I’ve been told to stop pointing out my “fauxed” stuff to everyone or there’s no point in “faux-ing” it.   (Maybe I’ll sneak you a picture later) The fire place is river rock and metal with a very large single beam of old wood for the mantle. The light fixture is antique.  One of my carpenters made the little octagonal table for me and the furniture is just indoor/outdoor wicker. In the summertime the windows can be removed and the room becomes a screened porch.  I love to sit out here with my tea in the morning, watching the squirrels pick the bark off the railings we paid extra to find with bark,  and listen to the river rushing by.  Heaven.

Click here for the best “Wood” song ever


Norwegian Wood

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Slim Paley photo

The house during construction.  The octagon porch is to the far rear left.

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Slim Paley photo

Squirrel handiwork on the porch in Sun Valley

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Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto‘s 172 sq/ ft. bungalow with several different living levels.

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“Conversation Unique”  by Yvonne Fehling and Jennie Peiz (Gallery S. Bensimon)

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DSquared Eau de Toilette for men

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Slim Paley photo

A boy’s bathroom in Sun Valley.

The backsplashes and counter are zinc, vintage trough sink from the U.K. All the wood is reclaimed. The sink fixtures are copper plumbing pipes  plated in nickel. (See early S.P. post “Pssst- Wanna Buy a Faucet?” Sept.09,  for more S.V. bathroom photos)

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Stella McCartney wood cage handbag

How splendid is this?

If I were a chic little Fairy with modern taste I would live in it!

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Anyone know what hotel this is in NY?? I lost my credit- perhaps The Crosby St.?

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Wood iphone cases at;

Miniot.com

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Shoe photo from Italian Vogue

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Matteo Thun for Rapsel

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Wooden radiators by i.radium.

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Slim Paley photo

A bedroom in Sun Valley.

Steeply pitched roof lines starting low on the bed wall and soaring toward the fireplace on the opposite wall help to create a very cozy haven.

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Feu de Bois candle by Diptique

This is one of my favourite scents (burning wood) by Diptique

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Rapsel wooden sink

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wooden toilet seat cover

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Yvette Laduk wool blend rug

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Slim Paley photo

Front Porch in Sun Valley

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Alexandre Moronnoz‘s park bench can be added to and twisted at any given point to make legs or armrests

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Nasomatto Perfumes

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Slim Paley photo

Wild flowers in an old wooden…thingy-  Sun Valley

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