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Slim Paley photo (from my collection of jelly recipes)
.Happy First Day of Summer Everyone!!
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Awhile back I’d mentioned that I felt “Jellies” were making a happy comeback. I say “happy” because I think there’s always something joyful in the jiggly presentation of a jelly, don’t you? I know they’ve fallen desperately out of vogue for many years, and some people might relate to jelly more as hospital food than a culinary treat, but I’m here to trumpet the triumphant return of The Jelly!
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Gelatin as jewels by Bompas & Parr
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Bompas & Parr
Jelly not only harkens back to my childhood, but to my endless fascination with the world at the turn of the century (uh-that would be the 19th century)
Jellies, aspics and blancmanges played a large part in all the menus and cookbooks of the day. Britain in particular was famous for it’s jelly- one of the few foodstuffs they excelled in over the French. Take that Francois.
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Slim Paley photo (from my collection circa 1924)
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Slim Paley photo
I love the wine jelly for the “Invalid”
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Apparently, the British are still the Reigning Kings of Quiver;
L’Enfants Terrible of Jellydom; Bompas & Parr
Bompas & Parr set up shop in 2007 and are already rather infamous in Europe for their bespoke jellies and moulds. “Blurring the boundaries between art and food”, they’ve appeared on Hester Blumenthal’s program (he of the world renown “The Fat Duck” restaurant), hosted a jelly banquet for 2000 guests featuring jellies designed by prominent architects, filled a gallery with a breathable gin & tonic vapor and created a four ton bowl of punch for people to row across in boats.
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Apparently, I’m just not going to the right parties.
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As of last month, their book is now available on Amazon here in the U.S.
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Neon Jellies by Bompas & Parr
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Bompas & Parr
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I couldn’t resist including this “Sugared Jelly” of a poppy that my friend snapped in her garden!
Isn’t nature amazing?!
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When I was little, one of my favourite treats was to pop open boxes of Jello and play “Lick-a-stick” with several flavours, my fingers and tongue stained alarmingly unnatural hues.
Somehow, this look triggered that memory!
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Bompas & Parr
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Bompas & Parr
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Bompas & Parr
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Broken Glass Jello (find recipe on The Food Librarian)
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Slim Paley photo (told you I was a Jello-nerd)
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If sweet jellies aren’t shaking it up for you (see what I did there?) I offer up a couple of savory aspic recipes for the summer;
YELLOW GAZPACHO ASPIC
1/2 red bell pepper, stem, ribs, and seeds removed, flesh coarsely chopped,1 small red tomato, coarsely chopped, 3 dashes hot sauce, such as Tabasco, Coarse salt, 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 4 envelopes unflavored gelatin, (scant tablespoon each), 5 (about 2 1/2 pounds) yellow tomatoes, seeds and pulp removed and reserved, flesh coarsely chopped, 1 English cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and chopped, 3 scallions, coarsely chopped, 6 fresh basil leaves, plus more for garnish, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, Freshly ground pepper, 1 clove garlic, Grape or cherry tomatoes, for garnish
Make bell pepper layer: Feed bell pepper and red tomato through an electric juicer. Pour juice through a fine sieve into a small bowl; discard any solids. Skim foam from surface with a spoon. Stir in hot sauce, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice. Sprinkle 1 envelope gelatin over top. Let stand 5 minutes.
Transfer mixture to a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin has just dissolved, about 1 1/2 minutes. Let cool slightly. Transfer bell pepper mixture to a 4-cup scalloped gelatin mold. Refrigerate until just set and still sticky, about 20 minutes.
Make gazpacho layer: Process yellow tomato flesh, the cucumber, and scallions in a food processor until almost pureed, about 10 seconds. Transfer vegetable mixture to a large bowl. Finely chop basil; add basil, 1 teaspoon each salt and lemon juice, and the vinegar to bowl; season with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Puree reserved yellow tomato seeds and pulp with the garlic in a food processor. Pour through a very fine sieve into a medium bowl; discard solids.
Sprinkle remaining gelatin over garlic mixture. Let stand 5 minutes. Transfer to a saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until gelatin has dissolved, about 2 minutes. Stir garlic mixture into the reserved gazpacho.
When bell pepper layer has just set, pour gazpacho layer on top. Refrigerate until set, about 4 hours. Aspic can be refrigerated, loosely covered, up to 1 day.
Run the tip of a paring knife around edge to loosen. Dip mold into a bowl of lukewarm water for several seconds. Pat mold dry, and invert onto a serving plate. Garnish with tomatoes and basil.
Serves 10 – 12. Martha Stewart Living
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AVOCADO PANNA COTTA WITH TOMATO GELÉE
Tomato gelée:
3 ripe tomatoes (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1/2 shallot
1/2 garlic clove
salt and pepper
1 1/2 teaspoon agar agar powder (vegetable gelatin)
Panna cotta:
1/2 cup half-and-half
2/3 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon agar agar powder
2 avocados, halved and seeded
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup crème fraiche
Tomato gelée: Combine the tomatoes, shallot and garlic in a food processor and purée. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a bowl, pour the tomato mixture into the sieve and refrigerate overnight to allow the tomato water to slowly drip through the sieve and into the bowl (do not press).
Panna cotta: The next day, bring half-and-half, milk and agar agar to a boil in a saucepan; transfer to a food processor. Spoon the avocado flesh into the processor and purée. Season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Spoon into six small glasses or 4-ounce cups and chill until firm, 20 – 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, transfer the tomato water to a saucepan and add the agar agar and a pinch each of salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Ladle 2 tablespoons tomato gelée on top of each panna cotta and refrigerate until set, about 20 minutes. Top each panna cotta with a teaspoon of crème fraiche, and a spoonful of minced cubed fresh tomatoes mixed with oil, lemon and chopped basil.
Serves 6. Met Home, May 2005
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How pretty is this vegetable terrine in jelly?
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Or this simple little dessert via my friend R.B., via Martha;.
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LIMONCELLO GELÉE
1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon (from two 1/4-ounce envelopes) unflavored gelatin
3 tablespoons cold water
3/4 cup Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine)
3/4 cup limoncello (Italian lemon liqueur)
1/2 cup sparkling water
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4 thin lemon slices, for garnish
Fresh mint sprigs, for garnish
Sprinkle gelatin over cold water in a small bowl. Let stand until softened, about 5 minutes.
Heat Prosecco, limoncello, sparkling water, and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, whisking occasionally, until sugar dissolves. Add lemon juice and softened gelatin, and whisk until gelatin dissolves.
Pour mixture into an 8-inch square baking dish. Refrigerate until set, at least 45 minutes (or overnight). Cut into 4 portions, and garnish with lemon slices and mint.
Serves 4. Martha Stewart Living, May 2008
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Clementine and blancmange
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5 Great Things about Jellys
- They’re inexpensive and easy
-They’re not that fattening (I don’t think…)
- They’re fun to make with your kids
- They’re both “retro” and “of the moment” – so look at you, Trendsetter! “Oh this? It’s nothing! Just a little recipe from Bompas & Parr”
-They mix well with alcohol 
and speaking of…
They have another book coming soon about a subject even nearer & dearer to my heart
Get on the list to be notified by Amazon when it arrives Stateside
No doubt there will be some wickedly wobbly libations within
Bottoms Up (wiggle wiggle)
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Slim Paley Photo
Slim Paley photo
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Maison Michel $475
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Pa Walton
